We hadn’t realised we’d been in Montenegro eight weeks as our time there had flown so fast staying at camp site Naluka, enjoying touring before the weather got too scorchio and the many interesting people we met whilst there and along the way.

Firstly, we’d like to thank Dušan, our campsite owner at Naluka, for his hospitality and treating us so well.  When we said our fairwells he sad he would miss having us around but not as much as he would miss Stella. He absolutely loved Stella, taking her for walks around the campsite, introducing her to the new campers, throwing a ball and always having a pocket full of treats for her.  We shared recipes for our freshly caught fish, local foods from the markets and home made dishes from our new Montenegrin friends. He always had a story to tell and knew everyone we chatted about, either directly or through a relative. It would appear in Montenegro everyone knows everyone.

Whilst staying at Naluka we met and would especially like to thank:

Ivana Krivokapic – who at the Kotor Tourist office, within our first few days in Montenegro, gave us a bag full of maps, tourist books, souvenir books and even a recipe book! KOTOR – Visit Kotor  Steve loves his maps and tourist guides, so he was in heaven with his head in maps planning our various excursions. From a previous post, you’ll know that Ivana asked for input on an article she wrote for the Kotor Tourist Office on Sustainable Tourism. It was great fun contributing ideas and seeing her produce such a wonderful article.

Captain Ivan – Having booked Captain Ivan for a tour of Kotor Bay and fishing we experienced the most wonderful full day out on the Bay which included a guided tour of the coastline.  At the end of our trip, together we rescued a turtle and a few weeks later Captain Ivan posted a video on his Facebook page to let us all know the 150 year old had survived its ordeal from being caught up in an illegal fishing line. Little did we know he’s Ivana’s husband until he turned up one day to inspect our poorly outboard motor with Ivana and their cute daughter Laura in his car. We loved their home to be in the mountain, being taken to an incredibly dangerous cliff edge to enjoy the view and being spoilt with freshly harvested produce from his garden. His infectious laugh will be an echo in our memories for quite a while.

At the campsite, we met many fun people of all ages, older retired ones through the winter months and younger ones as we got closer to July. None of them were English, most were from Germany, a few from Belgium, Holland and Austria, most of whom spoke really good English.  It was so clear that English is the common language as we were told by some German and Dutch people that they get quite upset when other foreigners don’t speak English and they are unable to communicate on their travels! We had ever changing neighbours and a constant stream of new conversations which kept our own catch up chats fresh. With each new introduction we exchanged stories, excursion tips, experiences, which roads to avoid and camping ideas. We shared boat trips, meals, drinks, trips to the Tramontana Beach Bar and life experiences.  At one stage, having stayed the longest at Naluka, Steve almost became both the welcome committee and our caravan, a tourist office equipped with quite a library of information.  Each of our incredible adventures is documented in posts on our blog. TeamWilph in Montenegro.

We met Andrea and Phil late last year at the campsite Cabopino, near Marbella, and shared a ferry to Split at the end of March, both booked into Stobreč; Andrea and Phil only staying for a week whilst we lingered for six.

Whilst the campsite had 300 pitches, there were no more than 12 – 20 campers at any stage, we didn’t really meet or mix with anyone as we were so spread out apart from our other UK travelling couple Chrissy and Richard who were originally pointed out to me by Steve asking “have you seen the man with the flower pot hat taking a cat on a lead for a walk?”. I looked out for the man with the flower pot hat and asked if he minded me taking a photo.  He said “with pleasure” and a friendship grew.

Our paths with Andrea and Phil and Chrissy and Richard, both couples travelling in their motorhomes, have criss-crossed since March until a few weeks ago. The others are now together back in Costa Brava, Spain; Phil and Andrea, having sold up home in Liverpool travelling full time in their motorhome, applying for Spanish residency, and Chrissy and Richard from Sunderland taking time out in ‘Kurt’, eventually making their way back home to Ireland. 

Meeting up with them at every opportunity has been nothing but pure fun filled giggles. Andrea, Chrissy and I keep in touch in a group called, yes you guessed it, “A, B & C”.

On our final night at Naluka we had our final night out drink at the Tramontana, took a picture of the same view we’d taken eight weeks ago when we arrived and as the Bay’s water was warmer the fish were slowly coming into our inlet.

Fully organised, packed and ready to leave we had to ditch our herb garden which we had been cultivating since last October. The rosemary (it’s everywhere), chives, mint and parsley just didn’t make the cut.

Ready to leave Naluka around mid-day last Saturday (3rd July) we set off for Albania.  We really wanted to turn left out of the campsite, going the long way round avoiding the ferry to our destination, but the campsite is on a tight blind bend and that manoeuvre was way too dangerous and impossible for us. Remember the Poacher when towing the caravan is over 13m long and has the turning circle of an oil tanker. Turning left was not an option even with Dušan and crew in the road holding up and directing traffic from both directions.

Having no other safe option, we turned right, looking for a turning area. Having already dismissed the ferry because we didn’t think the caravan with its low undercarriage would clear the ramps on or off at either end, using one of the ferry park up lanes for our turning circle, we became committed in the queue for the ferry.  I will explain. The 5 minute ferry crossing is continuous with several vessels in service. The ferry staff had held up all the lanes, directing us to be the first on the next ferry, at the front and central. They were totally helpful, one of them on his back, to ensure we had enough clearance underneath both getting on to the ferry and getting off the other end. We came through unscathed.

We were then on our way to Albania along Montenegro’s south coast, having saved some km’s of driving and about 40 minutes in time.  We had already done that trip in reverse South to North coming back from lake Skodar and meeting up with Phil, Andrea, Chrissy and Richard, but travelling twice on the same road there is always something to view that was missed on the first trip, especially in the opposite direction and opposite side of the road. We enjoyed the drive pointing out what we had already seen, Steve happy to be on a road without a sheer drop on his side.

Turning left towards Albania, we eventually arrived at the border and got into a queue with quite a few vehicles in front of us. As we got closer to the front to the left was a lane for cars, the one we were using, and to our right another queue dedicated for coaches.

Eventually we were at the front and Steve pulled our unit up to the first window.  That was the Montenegro custom check point. We didn’t need any documentation other than our passports and the Poacher’s V5.  We got our passports stamped that we were leaving Montenegro and walked a whole two steps to the next window which was for Albania. Same procedure, different official, passports stamped for entry into Albania.  Neither official asked about Stella, and nor did we volunteer any information on her or her new Spanish Passport.

We immediately knew we were in a different country by the roads, styles and states of the buildings and of course the dress of the people. The campsite we had booked ourselves into was only about 12 miles away and after filling for fuel, we were there in no time.

Masks in Montenegro

Whilst it would appear masks are worn in shops, supermarkets and generally inside buildings, the style of wearing one is mostly on the chin, as a neck bandana or arm accessory. Very rarely on the mouth and never including the nose, more of a “Kilroy was here” style.

“All that glitters is not gold” – how we found out follows shortly.

View from the Cockpit

Albania is very different, it will take some time to get under the skin of this country. Our original pre-covid, pre-Brexit,, pre Schengen90 plan was to head south and turn left getting as far as Greece, the departure date meant we eventually turned right for some winter weather. Our limited planning and research said “Avoid Albania”. Well we’re here, the border was easy, just two kiosks, (one out, one in) passport stamps, a purchase of some local car insurance, and on our way. The natives are friendly, switched on, and ready to help. On the first night at our campsite, just inside the border I walked Stella to the top of the road to have a recce. There were horse drawn carts, donkey carts, scooters with big loaded cages in front, steered by a bar, rather like a hang-glider. Other scooters with the whole family on board, and not one crash helmet. Wobbly bicycles going this way and that, half of them in the opposite direction to the traffic, mostly on the side of the road, sometimes down the middle. Quadruple parking, older Mercedes with windows missing, children knocking on car windows, and sometimes their parents. There has been the call to prayer every few hours, the country is half Catholic, half Muslim. We don’t speak Albanian, many don’t speak any English, It is the first time we have encountered such a different environment on out travels, it actually feels like being on holiday – Albania awaits, and it’s going to be an experience !