If at first you don’t succeed keep rolling

Researching camp sites in Albania we decided to aim for Camping Legjenda because it wasn’t too far to drive to from the Montenegro/Albanian Border, it looked magical, had a pool (essential in the heat) and was supported by many positive reviews on Tripadvisor.  We wanted to arrive Saturday 3^rd July, stay for a few weeks and were prewarned by the owner that her twenty-five year old daughter was hosting a 24/7 Techno Music Festival over the weekend which was due to finish Sunday evening. That wasn’t an issue for us. All part of our year’s adventure.

We weren’t disappointed with our expectations. Yet!  Despite the campsite only established 5 years ago, the entire grounds are full of mature trees, plants, pieces of artwork and a fountain. The oval shaped grass covered ground accommodates about 60 pitches along the edges in the shade and the middle is divided into two oasis areas (perfect for tents). There is a circular pool to one end with a suspended circular stage over it where the techno DJs were performing.

The site has its own stunning 15 bedroomed hotel and 10 wooden chalets, each well appointed, contained attractive pieces of artwork and the en suites modern and spotless.  Our first evening we dined at their restaurant, which is set a very large pretty garden with an enchanted feel to it.  It had a comprehensive more than reasonably priced menu and we knew we would dine there often, as it was probably cheaper than cooking ourselves.

In addition to the restaurant set in its own garden and the attractive grounds, the site also had a bar/restaurant behind which is a forest equipped with a permanent a performance stage, this stage taking over from the one above the pool from late evening until early morning by the festival. So far, so good, with us self-contained in our mobile apartment.

With the festival in full mode, the grounds were covered with small tents and revellers wearing wrist bands having a good time. We thought there were about 200-300 attendees. Little did it dawn on me that over a 24/7, 56 hour period not everyone was awake at the same time!

With the festival ending Sunday evening, we looked forward to the campsite returning to normal for Monday morning. There were cold drink fridges blocking the kitchen, laundry and washing up areas which needed moving to restore the service area. I’m sure I don’t need to describe the shared facilities, let’s just say they needed hosing and a deep clean. There were thousands of cigarette butts everywhere to be swept or leaf blown away. Whilst there was some workforce activity, I spoke to the campsite owner Lynda about the slowness of progress, to be told there was as many as 1,000 attendees and 40 international techno music djs.  These festivals had been hosted three times before by her daughter Lorna on her parents campsite, so they should have known what to expect and have been properly staffed to cope. 

Following on from my well written deleted paragraphs of rant, as we needed to drive back to the border to get a month’s green card car insurance (that’s the process and what we also did for Montenegro), we also decided to go tour about and be off the campsite. 

Approaching the border from the Albanian side, which we didn’t see on the way in was a troupe of eight or so older people, some in wheel chairs, holding bowls, begging for hand outs. We quickly closed our windows and locked our doors in unison. None of the begging was aggressive and there was a police presence to wave them on.  Green card achieved (a real one!) we drove into into the city of Shkodra, noticing the cyclists cycle anywhere, the odd donkey and cart, the odd tricyclist with a cart on the front. Approaching Shkodra city centre we stopped at a Spar Supermarket to stock up on groceries.

I was shocked to notice right behind the supermarket was a shanty town and from that shanty town, once we had parked up (we’ve since found a potentially safer place to park), arrived ‘professional’ young urchins asking for money for food.  They didn’t speak English but we didn’t need a translator to understand what they were asking for.  Again, the begging was all non-aggressive, but persistent and worrying just the same. 

Tuesday, with the campsite still not returned to normal, as we were only a short walking distance from Shkodra City centre we decided to walk in. On our way we passed fish being sold on the pavement.

and enjoyed a stroll along the 1km long pedestrianised boulevard lined with bars and restaurants. 

We found the centre of Shkodra to be huge and buzzing, from designer shops right down to people trying to sell their worldly goods on the pavements. It was kinda what we expected to see and didn’t phase us too much. As with any city centre, our mobiles were out of sight and we clung on to our rucksacks.

By Tuesday evening, we’d both had enough of the lack of hygiene on the campsite and waking up early Wednesday we made the decision to leave, but not before I had sent a detailed email to Linda. I told her in a nutshell, there was no schedule of cleaning through or after the festival and there should have been a thorough deep clean immediately it had finished.  She came to see me as soon as she received the email. I had a one sided sensible chat, she offered excuses which ended up in her waving our 4 nights’ fee and we were gone by 8:30am, the quickest move ever. I’ve left an appropriate review on Tripadvisor. Throughout our trip all of our (and that means ‘my’) reviews have been positive and it was disappointing for us to have had reason to complain about any lack of standards, especially hygiene.

The only way to our next campsite Lake Shkodra Resort was to drive right through the centre of Shkodra.  Steve drove slowly and steadily, we both had our eyes everywhere and realised just how big the City is. There’s a system of horn beeping.  It’s toot for anything, toot I’m letting you through, toot I’m over-taking you, toot you’re in the way and toot for hello.  Steve drove really carefully, as he always does towing the caravan, avoiding the many cyclists who all seemed to go wherever they wanted irrespective of lanes, direction, or others on the road.  The worst offenders were the myopic ones, especially wearing hats.  Accidents of vehicles were frequent and swapping of details the norm.

Within an hour, turning left at our next campsite signpost and driving down an unmade road we had arrived at the Lake Shkodra Resort. Their gates opened to welcome us.

View from the Cockpit

During this trip we’ve had to make major decisions, i.e. where and when to cross boarders – sometimes they’ve been made for us, such as lockdowns. This move is an example of where we can act quickly and decisively. Throughout this trip we have been agile, running before the lockdowns, researching borders, getting ferries rather than land crossings etc.

With Brexit we have had to extend our planning to months, we have done 71 days in Schengen, 45 in Croatia, 56 in Montenegro and 11 in Albania, so plenty of credit (90 days max) in each country, less so in Schengen. (19 days left). I have just read the EU’s call that Romania Bulgaria and Croatia join Schengen. In my opinion that would be bad for the Croatia tourist industry. Many British people are extending their Schengen time by heading for Croatia, for extended periods, as we did, some are having to become resident in Spain. Getting to Turkey and Marocco are problematic atm. Until a long term touring/tourist visa is available in EU, then Brits will just have to stop travelling or having holiday homes (and spending) in the EU.

I don’t often get political, not before the pub anyway , but this situation is a mess. Stella is more entilted to travel in Europe than we are, now being on a Spanish Passport. When we get back we will see what we can personnaly do to get our access to EU back again, otherwise its Adieu France, Adios Spain and Bienvenue aux Balkans.