We reached the border of Croatia from Montenegro bang on 8:30am last Tuesday morning (a week ago – where does our time go?) and unbelievably we were the only vehicle going through so it was straight up to the Border Booth.  Seeing so many beaches coming to life en route we couldn’t believe the lack of vehicles going back and forth but were delighted that everyone left the roads clear for us.

It was Steve’s turn to get out of the Poacher and carry our box of docs to present our passports, negative Covid test result paperwork, V5 for the Poacher and our Entry into Croatia Form. Steve once again explained, this time to a young female official, that the UK does not issue registration documents for caravans. I was all prepared with my mobile to show the young lady my photo of the rear of the caravan with the Poacher’s number plate, but it wasn’t needed.  After each each piece of paperwork had been carefully scrutinised, and sometimes recorded, it was handed back to Steve who returned each item into its place in our box. It’s all so easy to become complacent on a long travel and leave something behind. Having an excellent track record (oh, I do hope that statement doesn’t put the mockers on us!) we certainly didn’t want that to happen, did we? Although our passports were electronically recorded we also asked for them to be stamped, which we do whenever possible taking every precaution of proving our in and out steps for the Schengen Dance. Stella’s passport is completely in order and her medical requirements of jabs up to date, but once again nobody asked about her (quietly relaxed in the back of the Poacher), we didn’t volunteer any information and were through into Croatia in no time. So much for allowing a couple of hours for heavy traffic!

Literally just over the border and into Croatia we saw two welcoming signs; the first was beware of wild boars, which I wasn’t worried about as we’d never managed to see any, and the other was for a Lidl which I was delighted at. I smiled to myself happy to be back in Croatia. It’s been 12 weeks since we last saw a proper hypermarket.  I hadn’t cooked at all in Albania as it was too hot and it was cheaper to eat in the campsite restaurant, where we had just enough energy to lift a fork and of course a glass or two. Hmm looks like I might be cooking again.

Currency is now Croatian Kunar. Croatia doesn’t generally accept Euros but everywhere takes cards and there are ATM’s wherever you look. If you can’t see one, just literally turn around, there are that many.

By 9:15am, with views of the Adriatic Sea to our left and mountains to our right, we had reached Dubrovnik, we drove under the cable car now back in service, and saw the ‘walls’ which we walked three months ago seeing only 6 other people. I couldn’t see any walkers on the wall that morning and thought possibly it was too early or maybe the tourists were not yet out in force. We could see the Pelješac peninsula and reminisced about having oysters and mussels in Ston and visiting the Edivo Winery where bottles of wine are sunk into the sea and become encrusted with barnacles whilst they mature

The sky was blue, the temperature now only in the late 20’s than high 30’s and I thought I can handle this. With my eyes following the coastline I could see there were some yachts and boats in the Adriatic, not many but it was good to see the ones who were there as a small sign of the world returning to normality.

We decided as it was far too early to stop at our planned campsite just the other side of Dubrovnik, as the whole day was ahead of us, we would keep going and make it to Omis.  Our choice was either to go through Bosnia back into Croatia, the quickie route, or take the peninsula, the longie route. Having done the Bosnia Croatia route with the caravan on the way out, despite wanting to go through as few borders as possible, we decided to ‘go for it’.  After all, what’s the worst that could happen? Another ‘U’ turn through a beautiful country? Bit of a no brainer for Team Wilph. As Borat would say ‘high five’.

Getting into Bosnia was a doddle which was a bit of a disappointment for me as it was my turn to present the box of docs and I had my statement ready for lack of a caravan registration document.  The process of showing passports was hardly worth getting out of the Poacher! Driving past Neum, Bosnia’s only coastal town, with stalls of souvenirs, clothes and melons lining the road, we arrived at the next Croatian border. The official looked at us through his booth, we slowed down to stop, he waived us through, and we sped up grateful to be back in Croatia proper.

You can see our route below from Dubrovnic to Omis with The Bosnia borders shown in yellow.

As we drove by the Pelješac Bridge, we could see that it was almost complete with the towers now joined with spans compared to the first time we saw it three months ago with only the towers constructed. As usual I was enjoying the drive, brain in neutral, so I had to quickly grab my phone for the shots, hence poor quality. Soz.

The Pelješac Bridge was commissioned to connect the Croatian coastline, currently divided by Bosnia which is why we had to pass through two border checkpoints, it’s funded by the European Union and is due to have its grand opening June next year. Just thought I’d mention that!

Passing seaside resorts and incidentally road side water melon stalls (we continued to reminisce, especially about the times in Croatia when we met up with Chrissy and Richard now (back at home in Ireland) and Andrea and Phil (currently at home in Liverpool applying for Spanish residency). We arrived at Omis, driving through, knowing our way, and checked into Kamp Galeb. 

What a difference to our day visit to Omis three months ago at the end of April when the resort was practically deserted, Omis was quiet and Galeb was empty.  When we checked into Galeb it was almost full but with our usual luck of RTRP we have a pitch with beach frontage facing the island of Brač.

I took these pictures on a cloudy day, although the temperature was still around 28, rather than a clear blue sky background in consideration of you so you don’t get too jealous.

We can see why this is the perfect campsite as it is on the beach (in fact the beach stretches to Split), offers lots of water activities, there is a supermarket at the top of the road and the centre of Omis is a short walk away to its café society and old cobbled streets lined with fresh fish restaurants and bars.

With everywhere bustling, and talking about cobbled streets lined with fresh fish restaurants and bars, we walked into Omis for an evening meal. Steve had lamb chops dressed with fresh asparagus, with sliced roast potatoes (almost like crisps) decorated with tiny slices of roasted carrots and I had grilled squid with chips.

I texted Omis George as I knew he had a catamaran and did trips to the island of Brač from Omis. I’d been looking forward to asking him to take us to Brač ever since I knew we were going to stay in Omis.

He’s the lovely person who took us out in his small boat up the Cetina Canyon on our day trip to Omis end of April and dropped off a bottle of his home made red wine to our campsite at the time.

George’s Catamaran – I’m waiting for his return text.

View From the Backseat

Lets look at it from Stella’s view this time

Tucked somewhere at the back of the Poacher, probably a little worried yet something else will fall down on her, last time it was the boots, it’s been the dog bag, the small awning, in fact most of what is not strapped down has buried her at some time or other. The new trick of loading the Poacher rather than the caravan has saved some towing weight, but made her space smaller, just enough to curl up in, . She travels with a dog bowl of water, which slops around , getting everything wet underfoot, but we’d rather that than do nothing for her. When we stop during a drive, she comes out, maybe not for long if there’s no ball to chase, or a lead attached. I think she’s a little worried that we might leave her. Of course we are careful, and our pre drive off checks always include “Is Stella onboard”.

When we arrive at a site there’s a bit of set up to do, all blue jobs, as if the driving wasn’t enough. Blanche walks her, as they explore the new campsite which will be home for the next week or so, otherwise it’s me and Stella, first thing in the morning, last thing at night, and any bonus walks during the day or evening. In these temperatures she gets a sea-swim a couple if times a day, just to get her coat wet, and hopefully cool down a bit. In the heat of the day she generally hops into the back of the Poacher and sleeps with one eye half open, until I mention any if the following “what time is it”, “want a biscuit”, “how about a walk”, “get your ball” or “do you want to go to the Pub”, when she instantly wakes, bounds out of the car, and waits expectantly, tongue hanging out and tail wagging enthusiastically. I do the same if Blanche uses that last command.

Is she enjoying it? well she’s a settled dog, never complains, she talks to me, and understands every word I say, she tells me she’s happy. She gets a bit sulky at times, especially around the day or two preceding a move. Her latest fear is that ultraviolet light zappee thing for insects, which we trialled by the lake, in the first hour the score was 25 confirmed insect kills, but versus one lost dog, as she left the comfort of the back of the poacher and took shelter underneath the brake pedal. I keep reminding her she’s a gun dog, who should be used to bangs, but I think she missed out on that gene.

She’s walked the walls, been on big and small boat trips, explored the ruins, climbed cliff faces, experienced white water rafting, swimming, fishing, hiking, off-roading, met other similarly tempered dogs, sniffed her nose up at the little barky ones, met some homeless ones, and said hello to the German, Dutch, Polish and Solvakian fellow tourist dogs, and of course Harry the Cat.

What dog would not enjoy that ?