We chose the campsite in Modena for a short stopover, because it was conveniently located just off the motorway and of course conveniently close to get back on. Our minimum stay, unless we are in a rush, is two nights which is what we did there to give us time to plan where to go next, catch up on laundry (their one washing machine was big so it was easy to do our bed linen and towels) and do some food shopping as we needed to refill the fridge. Sat in bed having been served my morning cuppa I searched Google Maps for local supermarkets and found a Co-op under a mile away. Being in the middle of nowhere we had no idea that it would be one of the largest supermarkets we’d been to in a long time, a mall within itself, or that it would be situated within the iPortali Centre Commercial, an indoor mall which has over 85 shops spread over two levels.

Walking through one of the entrances I found myself in a marble palace dedicated to the worship of retail therapy. My first reaction was to find a shop that sold roller skates so I could race round and touch a window of every one of the shop units, leaving my fingerprints to ensure I wasn’t dreaming. I was pleased I was wearing good walking shoes. Following Steve into the first shop we came across, which resembled a PC World Curry’s, Steve got excited at the choice of gismos he might need but I didn’t share that excitement, as mine was in any other shop but that one. I told him to take as long as he liked and I would start walking round the centre clockwise leaving him to find me when he’d finished. On my own, slowly walking round, handbag on my shoulder loaded with cards and Euros it was one of those occasions like the salad bar in a Harvester – where you know you only like a few of the dishes but you still want to have the choice of the entire selection. I didn’t really want to buy anything, but it felt good to know I could if I wanted to.

Window shopping out of my system and Steve having caught up with me, we entered the Ipercoop supermarket. It was HUGE, selling everything anyone could possible need. There was no option than to start at one end, cruising aisle by aisle, until we reached the other end, with a few back tracks as you do. Having loaded up our trolley with things we really needed and even more things we really didn’t need we were re-stocked for our onward journey the next day.

Luckily the campsite had an excellent wifi system which made it easy for us to explore our plan which was to get into France as quickly as possible. However, finding out all the campsites along the way on the Italian coast were full, we had to think out of the box and look north not south. We researched and found a lovely small campsite 5km from Sassello where we arrived last Friday and decided to stay until the end of the month. It only has forty pitches but has an infinity pool and a bar. Perfect!

Whilst there is no restaurant on site, the campsite does try to provide at least three social evening dinners a week, the first for us would be the following Saturday evening which we thought might be fun and put our names down. It was! Seated on a very long trestle table, over three courses and local vino hearing that the couple next to me were leaving the following morning, I offered breakfast and before I knew it, it became breakfast for eight. At 4am I woke up bolt upright wondering what we had in the fridge and what I could throw together. After at least ten minutes discussing this with myself I told myself we could do it. Having given myself good reassurance it was back to sleep until the alarm.

Sunday morning, our six guests arrived promptly at 9 as pre-arranged and our largest table groaned with fresh bakery, croissants, jams (including our Uhudler Austrian one), variety of honeys (including one with figs), local butter, fresh soft peaches and plums, hams, cheeses, yogurts and fried pancetta. Delighted at finding flour and eggs, I was so happy to be able to knock up some fresh pancakes! Bert and Antien from Arnham told us they had never had a farewell breakfast before so I suggested they let their future campsite neighbours know how high we we had set the bar and not to let standards slip.

It was a brilliant hour’s Sunday breakfast but there was a sad note. We found out that one of the women has terminal skin cancer, the second person we’ve met not only with terminal cancer but also only having found out within the past few months. Rather than skirt the issue it is Steve’s and my way to discuss it openly, immediately. We know instinctively if the person wants to discuss it or not and usually they do and we’re ready to listen. Too many people who don’t know how to handle a situation ignore it out of embarrassment, so we try to make a difference by acknowledging the elephant in the room. In both cases we made sure we packed in as many laughs and socialising as possible telling them that we would fill every second of our times together making happy memories. In both cases we were told how their other halves were still struggling emotionally. By Steve going fishing or spending time with the partner, I would offer coffee and chat to the woman, everyone appreciative of time out. We hugged lots, shed a few shared tears, laughed together and keep in touch especially on check up dates.

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We met Bert and Gea as they had a puncture and needed help to get it sorted out. Steve having all the gear and every idea was delighted to lend a hand. Within no time the offending tyre was off and Bert’s Volvo safely supported with a jack and two axel stands that we carry in our ‘stores’.

Together, the four of us went to Acqui Terme a truly beautiful city, known for wine making and originally set up by the Romans. We were on a quest to buy a data card as the wifi on the current campsite was even less effective than a chocolate fire guard. I’d been winging (lower grade to a hissy fit) that I couldn’t write our posts or keep in touch with friends and family. If I’m happy, Steve’s life is easier, so data card procured we could spend some time In the pedestrianised area of the centre where I was happy to see that the shops were open and many had substantial discounts within their sales. Yes, I came away with a couple of things, delighted with my heavily reduced purchases.

Monday morning – 23rd August

Steve: I’m taking Stella to the vet in Sassello this morning to look at her ears as I think she might have an infection. Would you like to come with?

Blanche: Yes please. Would you like me to go through a check list of what to take?

Steve: Don’t talk down to me, I’m not a child

Blanche: OK, what did you forget yesterday when we set off for Acqui Terme?

Steve: I remembered Stella, but I forgot her lead and poo bags. Could you go through the list please?

Sassello is so charming. All its roads and streets seem to be cobbled, there is more than one church, there’s even a medieval bridge. There is no huge supermarket, just a small Carrefour Express as the town still believes in local shops. Well, we are in rural Italy. Everyone seems to be Covid aware, most wearing masks everywhere but definitely everywhere indoors, with shoppers queueing in the streets rather than in the shops. It was lovely to be able to walk round individual shops crossing items off our shopping list, with plenty of bars to chill in and people watch.

There’s a market every Wednesday morning and of course it just had to be done. It was fun walking round seeing such a choice of plastic buckets, every conceivable kitchen gadget, the food stalls and practising the haggling. We are now completely stocked up with local cheese, wine and fresh produce. We are also stocked up with too much fresh meat!

I was conscious that the Italian ladies are beautifully dressed and were wearing make up, compared to me who is camping, often wears the same shorts and t shirts for days on end and hasn’t got the make up bag out since NYE. You can spot an Italian lady a mile off. Their jewellery and clothes are just so bellisima.

Anyway, back to our new best friends from the Netherlands. Bert managed to secure a new tyre, which Steve helped him collect and fit to their Volvo. Now able to travel they were to leave the next day for Genoa. With too much fresh meat in our fridge, we invited them to help us eat some by having dinner with us. Being foodies, Bert’s mother is a professional restaurateur, they accepted, and Steve and I were in our element of hosting and cooking.

I went all out, which made me remember how much I miss having you at our table. Aw, sweet, I know but we’ll be back in a couple of months’ time! With the aid of our two induction hobs, the menu consisted of chicken in red wine, sautéed potato cubes with fresh rosemary and garlic, cauliflower cheese (grilled to crisp up the top), fine green beans in garlic and butter and a mixed salad in a vinaigrette dressing. I won’t list the drinks menu – too embarrassing!

We chatted all evening in excellent company. Bert told us he is a professional competition ballroom dancer. How cool is that? He and Gea gave a demonstration and as much as I love to dance, by that time my feet had lost their steadiness. Steve had been too generous!

View from the Cockpit

As you will know by now, we set off and had no plans, except the “sensible” option of overwintering in Spain, the warmest part of Europe from October to March. Remember that there was no vaccine, no Brexit when we left, so we were stepping into the unknown.

My thoughts for the summer centred around getting hot and getting expensive, my remedies were the mountains and staying out of tourist spots during July and August. For the whole of July Albania served us well, we ate well on the king-sized portions served up, always enough for two in any one dish. Drinks were cheap, but quality good, in fact a decent meal for two with wine and beer, would never cost us more than 20Euro, and there would always be a gratis drink or sorbet thrown in. No wonder we stopped shopping and ate out. It was hot though, the hottest we encountered was 44 degrees, hotter that body temperature. At that sea level temperature, we would have needed to climb an Everest sized mountain to get cool, but we survived it by doing little between 10 and 5.

Moving back to Croatia in August we had the idea to get to the mountains and Plitvice lakes, a national park, but it was a shock to come back to find the empty beaches we had stayed at were full to bursting, campsites which had been 17 Euros were now 40, and the further north we went, the more expensive. When we were quoted 70 Euros per night, and were still in temperatures around the mid-thirties, and had to queue for restaurant tables, we had a rethink. The return ferry to Italy was only slightly more expensive than the one we had taken in March, so it made sense to get back to some cooler temperatures, leaving north Croatia and Slovenia for another off-season tour.

So now we’re in Italy, in the very pleasant mid 20’s, and we have left parts of Eastern Europe unexplored, ready for our return.