Before leaving Cap d’Agde we went for our Antigen tests as late as we could, so we had as much of the three days’ cover possible whilst driving North. We set off in drizzle and got ourselves comfortable in the Poacher with the heater on and the wipers going for a long drive. Previously we limited ourselves not to overdo a day’s driving, but the further North we got the more determined we were to make it to our next destination Creuse Nature, Boussac, without a stop in the middle especially as it had stopped raining. This would save us not only a set up, a pack down and a day’s travel but also give us more relaxation time at Creuse Nature. Working together, as always, it was a full day’s drive but without rushing, factoring in comfort breaks, walks for Stella and energy snacks. Having our mobile apartment behind us, it’s all really quite convenient, comfortable and civilised. I don’t know if you remember that we do have a radio in the Poacher, but it’s rarely on because we can’t hear it through the noise of the engine without headphones and I can’t wear headphones because I’m the ‘look out’. This means despite being in each other’s company 24/7 we also talk through journeys to keep the driver company. At the end of each drive I compliment Steve on his safe driving and he compliments me on being his perfect passenger in readiness of a reward drink or two.

Arriving at Creuse Nature early evening we were welcomed by the owners Else and Reinier who, after scanning our Covid Negative Codes, welcomed us, said how good it was to see us again and invited us to join them for dinner.  Else and Reinier have been running their campsite for over 30 years. Most of their guests are regulars, as are we, who visited Creuse for the first time in 2013 and in each of our subsequent caravan trips we have factored in a stopover either on our way to a destination or on our way back to the UK. Many of their guests at one time or another have been a volunteer and we were no exception. We volunteered all of March 2019 to help get the campsite ready for the summer season. The weather ranged from really cold to almost spring, we worked at least four hours a day to a weekly shared schedule which included forestry, painting, maintenance, woodwork, needlework, cleaning (I loved the 3 minute dish washer), cooking for ourselves and even a car suspension replacement by Steve. In return, no money passed hands, we were fed each evening and helped ourselves at the bar. It was an absolute hoot and we laughed from the minute we got there until we left on the 28th March 2019 when we thought the original Brexit date was going to happen. The only day none of us worked was a Thursday as that is market day. We have so many stories from that adventure including walking football using leaf blowers and a beach ball, how I cooked a typical English Breakfast for all and a budget rebellion lead by Steve. If you’ve not heard them, we’ll save them for when we next meet up.

Over dinner that first evening Else told me they were short of serving staff in the restaurant for evening meals and I felt my right hand involuntarily raise itself.  It was no big deal, the restaurant is low key without airs, graces or uniforms and rarely caters for over 20 covers.  The atmosphere is more of a community bistro than a formal restaurant with a set three course dinner menu @ 19.50€ pp prepared by professional chefs. Else asked me if I could do Monday through Saturday evenings. I thought about not having to do any shopping (not having to juggle where to store the purchases in the caravan), not having to prepare or cook dinner (in my tiny kitchen) and not having to do the washing up (in my tiny washing up area). I also bore in mind without an Antigen negative QR code lasting 3 days at a cost of 50€ for the two of us we couldn’t eat out. My reward for waitressing was a complimentary meal for each of us plus a generous beverage allowance from the bar. It sounded very much like a win-win to me, especially as with set menus I couldn’t get any orders wrong. Each evening there would be a place setting for me at the volunteers’ table so I was able to eat between servings with Steve and the other volunteers, many of whom we knew. It turned out to be a superb arrangement.

Even I know in a naturist campsite I don’t need many clothes, just first thing in the morning before the temperature heated up (not that I ever got up that early), and early evening as soon as the temperature began to drop. With the season having changed over the weekend from Summer to Autumn, the first project I set myself was to try and sort out my clothes to swap the current ones with the stored ones. The result was that I really missed my storage space at home where all my clothes are hung up in spacious wardrobes instead of just the one small shared one we have in the caravan.  The fact that I have a minimalist choice of travelling clothes doesn’t count. My “caravan wall” that I couldn’t yet run beyond became a low level crisis situation as I began to try to store my summer clothes replacing them for my heavier clothes which required more space.  Then came the ‘where do the shoes go’. Trying to sort myself out in the restricted space, as my personal crises grew from insignificance into pure hissy fit indulgence, Steve gave me as much space as I needed. So much space in fact I had the whole caravan to myself to throw wobblies in as he had moved to the bar. As I rummaged through the hangers, the space saving hangers that I had once been so proud about now just annoyed me and no matter how much I rearranged them I was still limited to how much they would hold. With Creuse friends popping in to see how I was doing (actually I think Steve told the others, if they wanted a good laugh to pop in and see what I was up to), in no time at all I found the “caravan wall” had disappeared, I was on the other side and back into let’s make the most of this adventure mode having found my smile again.

As for being in France, most of the guests at the campsite were from The Netherlands, as we know most Dutch speak English, and we knew most of the guests and volunteers. Everyone from the kitchen, to the bar, to the guests were wonderful, and no, I didn’t drop anything. As the week progressed, each evening someone would organise some kind of entertainment. From singing to board games to card games and from catching up on the day to deep conversations exchanging views on current affairs.

As we’ve stayed at this campsite many times we know the area well and looked forward to Thursday’s markets in the quaint village of Boussac, which a commune in the Creuse department in the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region in central France.

It’s a really good large traditional market which sets up in the main square and is so big, spreads down one of the side streets. With an excellent selection, as you would expect, of local meat, cheese and fresh produce we took our time walking round every stall. We took the opportunity to take our kitchen knives with us as there’s a man who can sharpen knives. As he returned our knives back to us, having passed the “slice the paper test”, he included a plaster for me telling me with a laugh I would need it. Ever since I received that challenge I have been extra careful and the plaster remains in our first aid kit.

Every evening it was a treat to have a full on meal in good company accompanied with fresh conversation. Through the meal service we sat with the volunteers, but as soon as the meal was over guests and volunteers who lingered for drinks sat together. One evening over a couple drinks Marco and Quinina said that they didn’t have enough supplies for breakfast. Steve immediately glanced at me knowing I was going to offer the group one of my pancake breakfasts. It was quite competitive by all to supply a choice of as many toppings as possible from sweet to savoury.

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Our first week just flew by with me taking every opportunity to make the most of Summer’s final rays and Steve fishing at the lake. Steve was asked if he could fix a problem with one of the golf carts and was delighted to help out. There were the brave few who swam in the outside pool, but Steve and I only ventured as far as the circular heated indoor pool. It’s the one I helped paint – see picture above.

The second week got a little colder with fewer people on site, but we still had a blast on this incredibly social campsite. Steve was asked to help out behind the bar, he would received two evenings of training. Hans told him that its not allowed to drink whilst on duty but now and then mistakes are made, evidence of which must be drunk, and obviously there were regular quality control tastings. Steve loved his job as barman and we both felt with all the time he had spent in front of bars he was probably the most qualified. He did a great job, even mastering the art of perfect cappuccinos.

For our final morning before departure day, as discussed between Marco and Steve at the bar the night before, Marco and Quinina would join us for breakfast. Marco would walk the 4k into Boussac for fresh croissants, bread and apple pastries and we would empty our fridge.

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Returning from Boussac Marco told us he’d bought up all the croissants, I went into our kitchen to make scrambled eggs to share, whilst Steve worked his magic with our Nespresso machine. Marco took this video. He’s so creative.

As usual when we travel, we meet incredibly interesting people, socialise with them, share meals, experiences, swap phone numbers, send WhatsApp messages and promise to keep in touch. At Creuse it’s impossible not to do that. As I entered more names into my address book I realised just how many people we’ve met and do keep in touch with. I shall work very hard on our return to catch with everyone.

After a joyous two weeks, which flew by, we were on our way to a new campsite in Normandy run by an English couple who began setting up October last year. Steve had found them on Facebook and we thought we would do our best to support them. It was their dream to live in France and run a small campsite. What could possibly have gone so wrong that caused us to do a runner?

View from the Cockpit

As our followers and occasional browsers know, we have packed in so much this year, can’t believe how fast it has flown. As we prepared for this trip, maybe we put a few things to one side, thinking we’ll do that , we’ll use that , we’ll certainly be watching that, reading that, etc etc.

Well the reality has been very different. Not because we have had no time to relax, its just that we have found out how we actually relax.

For a start it’s not reading books, I’ve read two, Rewilding Yourself, and My Father and Eels. the first is coming back with me the second is on some campsite communal bookshelf. Blanche has not got past a first chapter yet.

It’s not watching videos, most of the DVD’s we took with us are unwatched, we did start on the Secret Life of Plants, and managed the Boat that Rocked. The last three episodes of the StarWars series have gone to a universe far beyond.

The diary of Blanche’s mothers childhood is half translated, well about 5% , and the Airfix model of the EType is taking longer to put together than the real thing, and that was18 years!

Some kitchen gadgets have made the trip, but not being used. The cant-do-without electric whisker can be done without, cheese graters and garlic presses have come and gone, as have many really useful Tupperware boxes, storage trays and saucepans. It’s made shopping fun.

Games were packed in anticipation, but Scrabble with the Polish neighbours just doesn’t work, not enough “J”s and “Z”s. We have found that Trivial Pursuit is nationalistic, Charades funny but unplayable, and we don’t like card games. Rummy Cub, with numbers however does have some international appeal.

So what did work ? Well the guitar has been an interesting waste of time, after a year onboard An hour plus a day, and it still doesn’t sound how I would like, even the “Three Blind Mice” one fingered solo. But I do enjoy hearing it wail. Blanche’s Spanish is improving much faster than my guitar playing, maybe one day I can accompany her

I have enjoyed keeping the caravan show on the road, always something to fix or check. The Poacher needs regular checking, packing, unpacking weight redistribution, rewiring, re-oilng etc. Other peoples cars, bikes and scooters have needed fixing, towing out, general maintenance, and I have whiled away some very pleasant hours on mechanicals, including Teddy’s engine.

Blanche has whiled away many more hours on Netflix, campsite internet and Data cards permitting, sometimes on the “can’t do without” sunbed, which has replaced the blow up sofa, which is now available to the first caller.

We are both busy sociable people, we like meeting people, making memories, telling and hearing stories, having a drink and a laugh, that’s how we discover we relax best. Possessions, games and doing things have become less important, just a catalyst to our lifestyle.