6 weeks, from wine battles to wasp stings, some more painful than others

Excellent crossing. Not a single wave. 2 nights and 1 day. Arrived early yesterday morning. At campsite and set up by midday.  Quite large with good bar/ restaurant, pool and cycling tracks.  Weather changeable but pleasant.  Better than scorchio for 6 weeks! Storm last night.  We have so little on board but don’t seem too be missing anything. We’re here for the wine battle which is tomorrow. Haven’t worked out how to take a waterproofed camera with yet! 

4 July

Cant believe already into 2nd week. Takes a while to realise no rush and slow down. The site is not busy. We’re under a canopy of trees, with a bubbling stream behind us, so relatively cool so far. Wash block around corner. Spotless. Yesterday we were at the shopping village over lunch time and did the scenic Rhune Train up the mountain in the afternoon. The top was cloudy but amazing views from the bar- one beer, one hot chocolate and bowl water for Stella. Yes  chien allowed on train. Today is first day of clear blue sky. Going  to dust off bikini and try get some rays whilst Steve studies maps. Then we’ll decide on the rest of today.

7 July

Dinner al fresco moules avec pomme frite for our final night at this wonderful camp site. Being on the boarder every time we drive anywhere our sat nav alternates between welcome to France and welcome to Spain. We’ve seen many local villages, beaches, places of interest and especially enjoyed the food and wine and markets. We’re two peas in a pod totally organised in our 10 year old caravan. We leave as early as possible tomorrow (which cld be any time up to midday) for Pamplona.  Very excited as we have tickets for the 7am bull ruin and bull fight Monday.  Not sure how Steve will cope.  Still getting used to slowing down as we still have for and a half weeks of touring xx

10 July

We did Pamplona bull run this morning. Early start to arrive for 6. Guided tour. Up to balcony for 7. Bull run at 8. We had our own guide to talk us thro. Atmosphere electric. You cld feel the nerves of the runners. Took lots photos and videos xx

Steve called me resourceful last night and it reminded me of our trip. We went into Pamplona last night by taxi to soak up atmosphere. The whole centre was pedestrianised and no matter which street or square, absolutely packed with revellers dressed in white with red scarves and sashes. Unbelievable. Around 10 we wanted a taxi back to our campsite, got lost and cldnt find a taxi rank. I found a bar opposite a landmark, got us drinks and asked a complete stranger, Spanish lady, to call our non English speaking taxi co to tell them where we were and collect us. Within a few minutes we were collected. We’re having such a wonderful joint adventure.

11 July

It’s a different enjoyable adventure each day. We’re really pleased we did Pamplona even though 2 x 5am starts on the trot. But that’s nothing as everyone does it! I’ve told Steve I’m having a lie in tomoz but if the sun shines lift me off the bed in the caravan and take me to a sunlounger in the sun. Right now is the best the weather’s been today so we’re sat outside the bar with a glass of wine. Will probably make Lourdes tomoz. Can’t be this close and not do it.

Last night we went into Pamplona on the camp bus then walked to the Plaza for the bull fight – 6 bulls. My friend Felicity organised great seats for us, five rows up amongst the Spanish. Of the 3 matadors one was outstanding. We were in front of and to the side of the royal box so all the action faced us. The cheap tourist section didn’t stop singing to their bands. We were surrounded by Spanish who all got their tin foiled sandwiches out simultaneously when the 3rd fight ended. Hilarious. Next time we’re taking booze in a bucket and food like they did. We had a short stroll and drink before returning to the camp site as we were back in at 6am this morning to see the entire  bull run from the stadium. It was a party from when we arrived at 630. Bands, dancing, cam shots on the big screen. They didn’t choose us for the kiss cam ☹. At 07:55 they showed the entire run on big screens. The bull and runners entering the ring after a few mins. There wasn’t a spare seat out of over 19k and at only 5€! Its amazing to see so many youngsters and families partying innocently so early. We’re now in France close to Lourdes to catch the tour de France. Weather iffy. But no matter as were enjoying exploring and sight seeing.

12 July

We begun our third week on Monday and are still getting used to the fact we don’t have to cram everything in as soon as we can as neither if us have had a six week holiday before; or in effect enjoyed ‘retirement’ together.  We seem to be planning our trip well and staying at wonderful sites a reasonable period. This gives us time to drive manageable distances, set up, enjoy exploring the areas around us, taste local foods and wine and of course socialise and exchange stories. We’re working well together discussing and sharing chores we don’t normally incur on a weekend/two-three week trip. Today we’ll be stocking up on food and a trip to Lourdes and for me if the weather is kind at least an hour on a sun lounger.
Yes the memories are stacking in our joyrnal

14 July

Lazy day for Bastille Day in Bagneres de Bigorre town square today – 14th. Sipping coffee, Steve has a Pastis, in the town square with a market in the middle. We walked in. 2km. It’s amazing what we do without time constraints. Never walked so much. Diet is healthy. No sweets, crisps or fast food. We buy fresh regularly and take our time in the shops looking carefully through the produce. Thank goodness space is limited in the caravan! Yesterday we went up Col d’Aspin to try to catch sight of Tour ‘re France but we’re too late as roads were closed first thing. Instead, at the top we had a picnic. Marvellous having the car as we can take clothes and shoes for any weather eventuality plus loads food and drink.  Tomorrow we’ll head for Carcassonne for the weekend before making it to the coast.

15 Jul

We moved this morning from mid Pyrenees to a beautiful village called Trebes outside of Carcassonne. We’re in walking distance of the marina, Bars and restaurants in over 30 degree sunshine where we begun our eve with fresh seafood. Tomoz we visit the medieval town and take a local boat trip at 5pm. Back at the municipal site we’re at the outside bar with a jug of sangria waiting for the band to come on. No need for wet weather contingency. The French can make evening dinner last all eve. We can’t make a jug of sangria last longer than 20 mins!!

18 July

We collected Lydia and 2 friends midday yesterday from Carcassonne airport and are now at Les Vagues, Valras Plage, on the coast from Beziers. It’s a large campsite but spread over 3 areas so doesn’t feel huge at all. The girls have their own tent butted up to our awning so they have access to their luggage and their own independence. Starting our fourth week we have our flexible routines and are loving our trip. We’re appreciating our new caravan with its fly screens. Tans are coming on nicely. No way am I having a six week holiday and coming back without one! Tonight we’ll be out for sea food dinner and hopefully visiting the local fish market with a promenade along bars and shops.

23 July

Well, another full week for us. We collected Lydia and her two friends on Monday to stay at a rather Butlins style campsite. Not my choice, but it was for the girls as there was everything on site, a beach to walk to and a fun petite train to ferry us to and from Valras town centre. We drove around many of the small villages especially Bouziques (twice) to buy and prep our own oysters and also to dine out.  Friday we ventured to Rivesaltes. I thought it was a newly opened museum, 2015. It was, but also by the camp huts used 2nd WW and in fact until 1960ish. We went because we thought that’s where my mum was sent from Paris to be allotted a place of safety. As I walked towards the huts I got emotional thinking how daunting for an 11 year old.  Or in fact anyone. I cld hardly function at the reception.  We found out it was only transit to death camps and my mum’s name was nowhere I  the records.  Phew on one level.
http://www.memorialcamprivesaltes.eu
We dropped the girls at Montpellier airport yesterday eve and then had one of our slap up meals. Yum.
Today we’ve moved to a campsite in a gorge  spread out along the Ceze river.  It’s so peaceful.  And from our pitch a short walk to a beach along the river which appears, is crystal clear and not too deep for me.  Tonight around 8pm we swam with Stella. Ok. I dipped my toe in and Steve did the swimming. It was so charming to see a couple of  families in the river with their inflatables. We’re booked in for a few days and start tomorrow off with a local market (via an ATM!)

24 July

We’re staying at La Genèse Naturist. Read above again! Its almost 4 miles down a hair pin track with only the site at the end. It cldnt be any more idylic. Spread at least half a mile along the winding river and spaced out. When in the river can hardly see any pitches. Just the walls of the gorge on one side and beach on ours. You get just a few peeps per spot almost having the river to ourselves. The main camp centre is a short walk/naked cycle (dont ask!!) so we’re well away from any noise.  We needed to shop this morning so drove the 4 miles to the top of the road which is the village Méjannes le Clap for their Monday morning market. Best market by far so far. The others have been total tit tat at extortionate prices. The best food produce and sensibly priced wine. Following extensive research and tastings, our small fridge is bursting. Having spent our final Euro it was 12 miles off to Barjac for the nearest ATM. A beautiful stone village with lots of Artisan shops. We cldnt stop to walk round for the shopping in the car so will be revisiting. I don’t think we’re in a rush to leave here as it’s so perfect with lots of wonderful places nearby to visit. I had a wobbly moment this morning missing my home, kitchen work space, washing machine and dishwasher. All sorted with loads cuddles. The patience this has taken on my mob!

Last night we had a visit from a hari kari wasp. It dove under Steve’s right foot so he got stung when he trod on it. He’s brown bread and Steve’s not a happy bunny!
We needed to shop this morning so drove the 4 miles from tbe site to the top of the road which is the village Méjannes le Clap for their Monday morning market. Best market by far so far. The others have been total tit tat at extortionate prices. The best food produce and sensibly priced wine. Following extensive research and tastings, our small fridge is bursting. Having spent our final Euro it was 12 miles off to Barjac for the nearest ATM. A beautiful stone village with lots of Artisan shops. We cldnt stop to walk round for the shopping in the car so will be revisiting. I don’t think we’re in a rush to leave here as it’s so perfect with lots of wonderful places nearby to visit.

25 July

Today’s blog
What can I say for today. Forget that we have a convenient tourist office at the end of our road at the High Street. Or that we have a list of places to explore. Today was total excitement in the morning at the wm being available so I could process two wash loads and had two trees to string a washing line. Bad news is Steve is suffering with his wasp sting. Where’s Gil when he cld take one for the team?! Good news is that he’s immobile, hence the washing frenzy and cld sun bathe by the river and have a little paddle. Now at the bar for Wi-Fi and only just found out no phone signal. Bliss. And of course to rehydrate with a Bacardi and coke for me and a beer for him. We’ve got our own dinner planned for tonight – veal from yesterday’s market – and apparently there’s a cabaret at 9pm. We’ll plan tomoz according to Steve’s foot. Weather here consistent scorchio.

27 July

I think the wasp sting has generated Steve’s gout, his right foot has completely swollen up and is quite painful to walk on. I’m told nothing to do with driving miles yesterday along Gorge de Ardeche, fishing at a steep slope, visiting Chateauneuf de Pap or around Avignon. So, joint decision today, after I have the local doc’s details, to do nothing. When I say nothing. Imagine after a glass of local chilled rosé walking a few yards from the caravan to a beach spot along the Ceze river, tall rock wall facing on the other side, very few people due to the size of the site, clear water to swim/paddle in and small fish darting here and there. In the sunshine!
Found out girls’ camping sleeping mats make excellent lilos on the river

28 July

Last nights Rock Entertainment by the bar was terrific. 5 piece band, each a proficient musician and played so tightly together. This morning after a full day’s rest yesterday Steve’s foot was no better so he gave in and off we went to the doctors. 12 miles away in Barjac where we went on Monday for an ATM. We left around 10 getting there about 10:30 finding a full market had taken over the whole town. As I wanted to return to Barjac with shops open this was a bonus. Steve balked at car parks charging €2 and by chance we found a free field. Discoveries can go anywhere. In over 30 degrees we walked (hobbling slowly) through the market without stopping to get to the pharmacy for directions. Then we walked (still slowly) from the pharmacy to the doctors. Yes, through the market again without stopping. I borrowed a chair and waited outside with Stella. 20 mins later Steve had been seen. Not gout. Wasp infection with prescription for antibiotics. Guess where we went next. Yes, to the pharmacy through the market – without deviation or stopping. My bottom lip was quivering. Once Steve had his medication we aimed for a cafe for him to take his first dose. By then it was 12:35 with the market closing by 1.  As you know I’m not a shopper BUT!!!  I managed to fine a little top I liked determined to buy something.  Anyway, relief at medical diagnosis and remedy. We had a great lunch sitting inbetween French so we knew we’d made a good choice.
Now at the bar for our Wi-Fi and Steve to get up to date with his emails, in watching kids club. So cute. Hopefully after a 3rd dose tonight Steve will feel better tomoz

31

Tonight is our 9th at this campsite. It’s been utopia.  Despite Steve suffering from a wasp sting, we’ve been sightseeing, visited several local villages and their  markets.  We’ve enjoyed the past couple of days ‘doing nothing’, especially today which has been too hot.  Yesterday we took a camp canoe up and down the river between the several beaches negotiating between giggles and Stella jumping in and out to swim. Despite families in the river together, children enjoying themselves in a safe environment  the memory I take away is the couple in their 70’s on a double lilo. They laughed like the teenagers inside that they are especially when one fell off and both tried to get back on on their stomachs to paddle along. Tonight we dined at the camp restaurant (delish) and as we saunter back to our caravan via the bar and a canopy of small white butterflies for a nightcap there is a pool party in full swing dj currently playing Macarena. Oh, now it’s Mambo no 5 . It’s so hot Steve’s in a serong and Panama . No matter how he ties his serong  above or below the disappearing belly it has a life of it’s own. I’m in hysterics. He’s English so the Panama stays put. Btw I’m in a silk ensemble.
Tomorrow we continue our adventure crossing the Millau https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Millau_Viaduct
and heading towards the centre of France.
We leave only footprints and take away superb memories.
We share our smiles.

2 Aug

We moved to our final campsite yesterday in the Cruese Region via the newly erected  Millau suspension bridge. Spectacular and even more breathtaking from the viewing platform.   This is our fourth visit to this Dutch run site; last year in a cabin having travelled in  the EType on our road trip. It’s smallish, spotless, friendly and has a fishing lake. Our pitch was chosen by it’s close proximity to the Lake. We dined in the restaurant, too late and too tired to cook ourselves and reacquainted with regular staff.
9am this morning
Me: Darling, the bread van is here
Steve: have we only got a €50 note?
Me: yes
Steve: I’m not joining that long queue to find out he doesn’t have any change
Me: Darling. It’s a long queue. He’s going to have change!
We’re now by the Lake. Steve is fishing. I’m sun bathing beside him in the 28/30 heat. From the other side of the Lake we heard a guitar being tuned, then played beautifully with the female French musician singing. You cldnt script this.

4 Aug

Yesterday was yet another unexpected fun day. We decided to drive around even more pretty French villages and for Steve to take me out for lunch. We found a hotel/restaurant by chance. Very old style, the furniture, pictures and objects d’art wld have easily graced any antiques shop. Neither of us was particularly hungry but faced with a typical French 3 course meal did our waistlines justice. On the way back mid-afternoon we turned into a village because we had seen the name a few times on signposts. It was larger than a village but smaller than a town and medieval style.  We knew something was going on as we struggled but successfully parked. The main high street had been pedestrianised and outside the shops people had set up stalls, car boot style. Anything and everything. We were both in our elements. I cld do the shops and Steve and Stella the stalls. Within minutes Steve made the first purchase. A 2016 guide book of French campsites (as though we didn’t have enough already) to add to our on board library. Then it was snail dishes and a well thumbed french/English dictionary.  Our buy of the afternoon was a brand new fancy kitchen sink tap assembly – if it fits! The village only holds these events on Thursdays afternoons thro July and August so a very lucky find and certainly entertaining few hours.
We were back in time to settle Stella and catch a small travelling circus. We like circuses. No more than 80-100 in the enthusiastic easily pleased audience. We clapped as hard as everyone else at the skills of the performers.
Nearly back to reality Steve has taken Stella to a vet to get her passport stamped for the ferry back. I’m wondering how we packed so much into six weeks (actually 5 weeks 5 days) and how quickly the days have passed.
We cld quite easily continue our travels but we miss our friends and families
See you soon
Much love
Team Wilph xx