2013 – Vintage Touring

We got our first caravan by accident !

Pre-towball, Steve took the children , George and Lydia and the hound, Stella  to Devon.

Lots of small  fields full of long grass, and grazing sheep. Walking Stella was a challenge, and leaving her in the chalet not an option. After 5 days of continuous rain we came home early,

Time to get substitute accommodation. This heralded the arrival of the Bailey , our 28 year old mobile 4 berth dog kennel !

20 days/20 dates

Day 1 – Monday 12 August

Settling into Les Biche Campsite, Saint Gilles Croux de Vie x 3 nights

Day 2 – Tuesday 13 August

Pleasant bike ride to Les Salines

Discover the Marais Salants (the salt marshes), the smallest of the 3 marsh areas of the Vendée, which is an important area for the production of sea salt, but equally if not more important is a refuge for native flora and fauna. Lying just north of Les Sables d’Olonne and protected by the sand dunes from the Atlantic Ocean this fascinating area has seen the production of salt dating from Gallo Roman times. It covers an area of several hundred hectares which are criss-crossed by walking trails. Much of the marsh is privately owned and is a protected natural zone, and many of the former salt farms are now producers of fish in particular mullet and eels. A bird sanctuary has been created in the salt marsh on the Ile d’Olonne, Champclou which is now a breeding ground for many species of birds.

We made the trip twice; first time as we got the timing wrong with Stella and then again in the afternoon without Stella.  About 2 hours all in French.

Day 3 – Wednesday 14 August

We move to Le Columbier x 6 nights

On the way we visit the Motor Vehicle Museum.  Somewhere Steve has always wanted to visit but only ever driven past. 

The site is over several fields and the pitches are spaced quite well apart.  We chose a pitch in the shade for Stella with plenty of room to set out the awning.

I felt like Lee Evans on Speed not knowing how to relax whilst Steve set up the caravan, awning, electrics, water and other essentials.

The circus came to our campsite so I donned a dress and off we went.  Not bad at all but not a patch on Budapest.  When we left the temperature had dropped and I couldn’t wait to cover up with fleeces.

Day 4 – Thursday 15 August

I am beginning to chill, but not quite there yet.

We took a car ride out to find shops, markets and supermarket, but it was a Bank Holiday in France and all was closed.

In the evening the camp’s bar had an accordionist, people danced in the square, and we watched enjoying copious amounts of wine. 

Day 5 – Friday 16 August

Steve takes Stella for her regular morning walk and collects our fresh bread for breakfast.  The people on this campsite are very sociable and everyone greets you with bon jour.

We take a trip into St Hermoine for a local market and purchase fresh veg and fruit.  We then do a supermarket trip and buy Oysters and an Oyster knife for our evening meal.

Day 6 – Saturday 17 August

What a full day!  Off to Luçon for another market day (not as good as the day before), walk about and feed our growing patisserie habit.

Then it’s off to LʼAiguillon-sur-Mer to visit a sleepy local sea side for a walk and amazing sea food platter lunch.  We notice there are loads of Motorhome Parks at no or little charge per night.

That afternoon we visit Morans for a motor boat trip with Stella and lots of photograph taking with Marais Plaisance along the canals.

Day 7 – Sunday 18 August

A week already?!  You can tell I’m getting into relaxing as the diary day pages are growing.

Normally at the end of a week I would be returning home from holiday and getting into work mode but, jolly dee, I have another two wonderful weeks if the last one is anything to go by.

A lazy start to the day whilst we wait for the day to warm up and decide to plan our itinerary at the bar tonight.

We bike ride to the local village where the only shop appears to be the Patisserie. From there we went to the local beauty spot to admire the lake, eat our éclairs and play with Stella.

It’s a dozy afternoon reading books then dinner, and route planning at the bar.

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Day 8 – Monday 19 August

It’s an early start and off to Saint-Pierre of Maillezais Abbey where we take a canoe boat trip with Stella (I’m not allowed to paddle so on photographic duty), a local lunch of table d’hôte Some kind of pork dish for Steve and brown savoury pancake for me. Then a walk through the ruins, climbing the tower and admiring the architecture and view.  All I can think of, is the exercise the more pastries.

I log into the internet, but not with enthusiasm.

Day 9 – Tuesday 20 August

We leave Le Columbier in the Vandee for a tour of the Loire swapping fields of corn and sunflowers for vineyards.

The sky is clear blue and it’s hot.

We check into the next campsite Chantepie in Saumur x 2 nights.  Whilst modern, the pitches are close together.

The good news is that the hot water is hot!

We visit the Château de Brézé with Stella and walk around the fortress for 2 hours in the cool of the caves.  Stella is allowed in the grounds and the caves, but not in the Chateau so I make a quite visit leaving her with Steve outside.  It’s quite a military style.

Returning to Chantepie we find the Bar and Restaurant are both closed on Tuesdays so do our own thing with scallops bought from the local supermarket that afternoon.

Day 10 – Wednesday 21 August

Busy day today.  In search of Saumur market.  The first has three stalls, the second only one.  Only one thing left to do.  Visit Musée des Blindés.  There are 250 tanks and personnel carriers in the museum to view from a collection of over 750.  We have the photos to prove it.

I look lots and lots of photos whilst Steve reminisced about his Airfix Modelling days.  The museum was both interesting and frightening at the same time, covering WW1 up to present day.

I loved the afternoon.  We joined a guided tour of the Louis de Grenelle Wine Cave, specialists of sparkling wine.  Obviously finishing with wine tasting.

The caves went on forever, but I wasn’t cold as the Discovery is something of a workhorse and storage facility so I had access to fleece.

Day 11 – Thursday 22 August

Urghh.  Why did the whole camp, their wives and children want to use the showers at the same time as I did.  I hate queuing!!!!

Pack down and early start to tour along the Loire to Tours, stopping at Rochcorbon for the Tourist Office.  We speak to a lovely Dutch lady who practically gives us her life story.

We follow a walk trail and take in the Troglodyte dwellings.  Damn, no soft drinks in the fridge.  Never mind.  We’ll share a Desperados.

After our walking tour, it’s off we go but not for long.  We stop by a Wine Cave in Vouvray.  Well, it would be a shame not to!  But I missed out as I didn’t leave the car.  Mental note.  Don’t do that again.

Still haven’t really chatted to anyone but Steve and our 24/7 holiday is delightful.

We check into Moulin Fort, Chernonceaux for a night.  Quite a fun site and best of all, it’s a bike ride to Chateau de Chenonceau, or two bike rides if you forget the chain lock key.  Wow.  Another great couple of hours walking around the amazing gardens, viewing the moats and the Chateau itself.

Back at the campsite sunbathing for me is rather like parking in central London.  I have slots of time equal to the time it takes Steve to down a pint.

The shower block is kinda modern and clean but only one loo roll dispenser at the entrance so you have to plan your visits before encapsulating yourself in a cubical.  Definitely not my style.

Pitches were fairly open plan without hedge boundaries or privacy.  Although totally enchanted with Chenonceau not sorry to leave.

Day 12 – Friday 23 August

Where is the time going?

Packed up and on our way to Boussac by 10am via picturesque ancient villages, the patisserie, supermarket and petrol station to arrive at Creuse x 4 nights.

Now experienced, quite relaxed to walk round the site and choose our pitch at leisure.  We decide on one facing the lake in semi-shade, where I can sunbathe, Steve can fish and Stella can relax.

Manoeuvring into the pitch was tight, but 3 campers helped out, so got there eventually.  All cars had to be parked at the entrance car park, so the whole site was totally tranquil.

Time to treat Steve to a well earned beer or two at the bar which is in the shade and conveniently located to the pool where I can sunbathe.

Jolly Dee, I have secured my first sun lounger.  Result!  Sunbathing for more than 10 minutes by the pool on a sun lounger.  Amazing what you can achieve when the bar is adjacent.

We’re told that each evening there is a table d’hôte and everyone eats together at 7pm.  I see the table laid up for 40 and can’t want to join them tomorrow evening.

Day 13 – Saturday 24 August

It rained through the night and is overcast this morning.  No time for breakfast as it’s Saturday market day and I’m still in search of a large traditional French centre ville market.  It’s drizzling but stops when we arrive a Guerret central market.  This is exactly what I’ve been on a quest for.  Meat, fish, vegetables, fruit, snails, cheese, bread, patisserie and home produce stalls, each with a queue.  The French carefully picking up and inspecting each piece of veg and fruit before making a final selection.  We just don’t get those visuals or aromas in the UK.  A brief stop at a traditional bar at 11am where they play Edif and then men are already drinking rose and planning their evening meals. Steve and I are sat opposite each other, he with an expresso and me with a double and Stella well behaved under the table.  Steve faces inward and I through the doorway and sky beyond.  The sun is making it’s way through the clouds.  I couldn’t be any more relaxed or happy.  We finish our coffees for a final walk around the market to buy our daily patisserie choices and a few supplies.

Steve drives around Fressline and Grozant, Monet country, and we stop at another bar at an Auberge run by Irish by a stream for a couple hours.

Returning to the camp, Steve can no longer resist the pull of the lake and goes on a shopping trip for a fishing rod.  Mission accomplished.  He fishes for a couple of hours, I sunbathe, read a book and take photos.  Heaven.

That evening we are part of a communal dinner for 30.  I did think about wearing make up, but au natural prevailed.  The group was made up mostly of Dutch so we were all English speaking.  The couples either side of us were excellent conversationalists and company.

We had seafood salad as a starter, followed by pork with noisette potatoes and a selection of vegetables, finishing with cherry waffles (which I spilt over my white jeans).  Our hosts had placed house wine on the table and all we had to do was keep a log of how much we had drank.  Easy peasy.  Forget glasses – it was bottles.  From 7 until 10pm the time just flew.  Imagine, no groups of strangers at the bar but one large sociable group exchanging conversation.

Wood burners were lit, so we could stay outside as the evening temperature dropped.

Day 14 – Sunday 25 August

It’s overcast again today  I left Steve to walk Stella whilst I should have tidied up but stayed in bed wanting a quiet relaxed slow paced day.  Actually, I never joined in the early morning walk.

At this site instead of ordering your bread the night before, a van arrives at 9am each morning, sounding the horn all the way up the drive so we could choose our bread and croissants.

Another sumptuous breakfast of local bread, croissant, cheese and fruit. 

Steve fishes with Stella whilst I potter about and catch up with the diary.  We are doing so much I’m pleased I’m keeping a record.

The sky is grey, the temperature neither not nor cold.

We have a lovely lazy day of fishing, reading, cooking and eating.

There’s a rather large carp teasing the fishermen which includes half a dozen children and Steve.

That evening we hear a lone guitarist playing to himself outside his caravan.  Apart from him, the air is still.

Day 15 – Monday 26 August

We’ve woken up to better weather – so I’m brave enough to walk to the shower block.

After yet another wonderful fresh breakfast, Steve talks me into cycling to Boussac.  We’ve already driven back and forth and I know half is uphill and the other half downhill. As I haven’t cycled properly for over 35 years I know I can cope with the flat and downhill.  A brave determined face is worn and off we go.  Slight struggle and walk at the end for me but we make it to town and head straight to a bar (via a cash machine) to discussed the quarter master’s store.  Not much required, but a supermarket shop is required.  The local supermarket is quiet and playing traditional French accordionist music.  I wanted to dance through the aisles.

Basic essentials covered, a walk round the town square and church and then another stop at another bar, but this time for vin rose not coffee.  I’m concerned about the cycle back as I’m sure it’s more uphill than downhill.  These thighs haven’t known such exercise for quite a while but so long as exercise equals more patisserie I’m willing.

Eventually, back at our pitch, it’s a salad lunch before fishing and chilling.  Steve is in his fishing chair, with young boys by his side, all silent concentrating on their casting.

It’s happy hour at the bar tonight if I can drag Steve away from trying to hook the big on.

Day 16 – Tuesday 27 August

Final morning at Creuse and time to pack.  As I do the washing up, I see the queue for the bread wagon for the final time. 

A more than pleasant drive to Sancerre, via a supermarket for tonight’s meal AND it’s only taken two and a half weeks to find a potato masher, and check into a new campsite – Les Portes de Sancerre.  The first one without a pool.  The amenities are basic but we are right on the Loire with plenty of walk opportunities for Stella.

A French 10 Minute walk to the vets turns into 40 minutes each way but we get Stella’s passport in order for the return trip. 

More good news is that for the first time we are within walking distance of a Patisserie.  Another goal on my hit list for a morning’s supply.  More, more good news is that we are also within walking distance of a bar on the banks of the Loire.  A beer for Steve and Punch for me plus of course our first glass of Sancerre in Sancerre.

I feel as though I’ve spent the past 17 days on 17 first dates.

Day 17 – Wednesday 28 August

Second day in Sancerre.  Steve has suggested a bike ride up to Sancerre – which is on a hill.  A very tall one.  Looks more like a mountain to me.  Personally I decide it’ll be more of a bike push.

We start with a shower – hot for a change – and pain au chocolate.  Not up to the standard we’ve gotten used to but we are no spoilt and nevertheless a good way to start any day.

We biked to Sancerre.  A 1.8 m8ile roughly on the flat, then over a mile uphill.  I pushed my bike most of the way and couldn’t believe how hard my heart was pumping and feeling organs wanted to burst.  Eventually there, it was totally worth hit.  We parked and locked the bikes and walked around the church up 198 steps of The Feifs Tower (amazing views despite Steve’s worry about heights).  We settled in to the panoramic views taking lots of photos and then made our way to the square to a restaurant for lunch.

It was Moules, Chips and Sancerre.  Cycling back was almost a doddle and I’ve never been so pleased to end a journey and dismount from a bike.

We decided to go back to Sancerre, this time by car, for tastings and wine tours.  Almost at the top Steve remarked how narrow the streets were, when we could only get through one of them catching a wing mirror.  Thank goodness we weren’t towing the caravan.  The first Cave in Sancerre had limited choice and total lack of enthusiasm and atmosphere.  We left without making a purchase.  Via the supermarket and comfort food and wine buying (only 2 days to go and plenty of storage in the car and caravan) we try another cave.  Success.  We tried a number of blanc and rouge Sancerre plus Poilly Fume.  Our host spoke English in the style and was the size of Gerard Depardu.  He even had his charming smile.  Obviously we made purchases.

Returning to the campsite it was time to visit our local bar for pre-dinner drinks.

Day 18 – Thursday 29 August

For the first time we are within walking distance of a Bolloungerie, so without showers we take Stella (yes, me this time) for her morning walk and to get breakfast bread and pastries.

We were hooked up and ready to leave Sancerre by 10:30.  We make quite a team.

A pleasant drive around South Paris to Giverny and tour of Monet’s house and gardens with both of us trying to recreate the water lilly picture on our cameras.  Steve is really getting quite good at selfies. 

Outrageous.  A can of Heineken and can of juice are 8.50€.

After a drive through Roen (the only place through the entire holiday were we got caught in traffic) we arrive at Le Van De Trie, Moyenneville  at 8:30pm.  As the bar shuts at 9:30 the caravan is set up in record time.  It’s our final night on our holiday.

Day 19 – Friday 30 August

A lazy morning and get up after a long journey yesterday.  We manage to shower and be ready for breakfast around 10ish.  Then it’s Steve v Wasps over breakfast.  I just couldn’t stop laughing.  But he did achieve a confirmed kill of 5. 

Making the most of our final day we visit two seaside towns; Le Crotoy, too big to stop in, then Breck Sur Mare for a walk on the beach with Stella.  Luckily the weather is pleasant, not too hot, so the beach is not crowded.  We see all the dogs not allowed on the beach signs and like other dog owners decided to ignore them.  We are not ‘caught’ until we are making our way off the beach.

A walk along the front and restaurants shows that Breck Sur Mare is quite downmarket; there were families picknicking in our car park. I really fancied a crepe, but looking at the servers did know how clean their hands were or where they had been.  Frankly, I didn’t want to find out.

We continue to Montrueil where we abandon the car and caravan in the town square and take lunch in a local bar sitting outside.  At last I have my crepe with apples and Calvados.

A short walk as time allows around the cobbled street, boutiques, shops and quick look around the Citadel.  That’s been ear marked for our next visit.

We leave for Calais and timing is perfect – as always.

I know I did all of the above – I have pictures to prove it!